We visited the community recreation center for children and saw 30 little boys practicing tae kwon do. The facilities for the large number of children in the camp seemed very limited. The center also has a dozen computers to teach them computer theory. They are not hooked up to the Internet, because they can’t pay for ongoing fees. Israeli soldiers had previously broken into the center, busting out windows and doors and smashing the TV, our hosts said. They arrested a number of the boys and held them for five days. Israeli army officials have called the facility a terrorist breeding ground.

Walls in the camp are covered with graffiti. Some of the street art pleads for the end of the Israeli occupation, while some of it honors Palestinians who have been killed, either by the Israelis or in suicide attacks. I didn’t see the hopelessness that I expected. People are still trying to keep things nice and to be pleasant to strangers.

Adventure in Gaza

The Center of Preventive Security building, which was adjacent to our hotel, had been bombed by the Israelis the night before we arrived in Gaza. Israeli tanks also shot up cars and an ambulance that had been sitting in front of our hotel. The second night there we were awakened at 1 a.m. and told that the Israeli army had started moving their tanks into the area. We were taken to a nearby hospital that was less likely to be shelled by the Israeli army.

A bomb or shell blasts woke me up at midnight the following day. We had been told to have all of our bags packed in case we had to leave quickly. The Red Crescent was keeping track of the danger level and was prepared to move us out if tanks moved into the area. There was some fear that if more bombs were dropped on the building next door it could cause the walls in our hotel to collapse.

We waited in the lobby for an hour before people could return to their rooms. I had called my wife and assured her I was safe. But shells were pounding the area as we talked at 12:05 a.m. The Israeli army’s targets are hard to predict, but they normally make only one attack per night. Once the Palestinians and visiting foreigners determine that the Israelis were committed elsewhere, they went back to bed.

Husain, our team leader, did a live TV program on Palestinian TV at 2 a.m. one day, fielding questions from around the world. The following night, Bauer and I did the hour-long program. The interviewer had good questions, but when he opened the phones, callers didn’t have questions. They mostly wanted to convince us what a terrible situation they are in as an occupied territory - the constant killings, the bombing of buildings and the settlements being built on what they see as their territory. It was apparent they felt forgotten by the rest of the world.

The callers pointed out that the Israelis have tanks, F-16s and Apache helicopters. Palestinians we talked to said they feel that all they have is their blood. One man who called had to stop to see how close the tanks were before he called back later to continue his complaints about the situation.
The show is very popular here and is sent by satellite around the world. Bauer and I had a caller from the United States and one from Britain. When I got back to bed I was awakened several times by the sound of machine-gun fire. For some reason I didn’t have trouble falling back to sleep.



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